GETTING READY FOR YOUR NEW PET

Remember how comforting it was when, as a child, you visited relatives and found things waiting just for you: a cozy bed, toys to play with, and a pantry full of yummy foods and treats? Well, you want to welcome your new dog or puppy just as warmly.

That’s why you should try to bring your new puppy home when you have at least a day or two to stay at home. This will give you and the puppy time to get accustomed to one another. If you can avoid it, don’t bring your new puppy home during Christmas or some other holiday, or while you have visitors. There’s too much going on, and probably not enough time to devote to making your new family member feel welcome and secure.

LEARNING ABOUT YOUR NEW DOG

Scientists believe that all domestic dogs derive from a single wild species, probably the Asian wolf. After thousands of years of selective breeding, a wide variety of breeds has evolved. As an owner, you must understand, and accept, the traits inherent in any given breed. If you try to make your dog into something it’s not, neither of you will be happy. You wouldn’t expect a Cocker Spaniel to herd sheep, or a Boxer to pull a sled through the snow. Yet some people acquire purebred dogs without understanding that each breed has specific characteristics.

For example, larger dogs like Weimaraners and Dalmatians need large areas to exercise daily. Labradors tend to gain weight easily, a health hazard if the owner is a pushover for sad brown eyes. The giant breeds — St. Bernards, Great Danes and the like — typically have shorter lifespans than smaller dogs, and have special nutritional needs.

So when you get your new dog, spend a few minutes with a breeder or other professional to discuss typical characteristics of his breed or mixture of breeds. Also, ask for a recommendation of a breed-specific book that will tell you more about the care and training of your new dog. You can buy the book from your local pet store, whose manager may be able to suggest additional titles.

NAME TAG, COLLAR AND IDENTIFICATION CHIP

It’s no mystery why "Rover" is a classic dog’s name. Most dogs love to wander, and that can get them into serious trouble. So when you arrive to pick up your new puppy, attach a name tag and collar immediately. You can get these at any pet store. Just make sure you get the right size collar, or your puppy could slip right out. It’s a good idea to get an adjustable collar, to accommodate your puppy as he grows. If you are worried about loss or theft, you need more than just a name tag to identify your dog. Stop at your veterinarian on the way home from picking up your puppy, and set your mind at ease with permanent identification, like a microchip. (You can also take this opportunity to obtain a general health review and set future appointments for immunizations, which we will discuss later.) If microchip service is available in your area, your puppy will be assigned an exclusive registration number and entered into a national registry. If he or she turns up at any shelter or vet, a quick scan will reveal the registry information, and you will be called.

MEETING OTHER HOUSEHOLD MEMBERS

Once you and your puppy arrive home, expect an adjustment period of several days or — if you have another dog, a cat or children — a couple of weeks. The moment you arrive, offer your puppy an opportunity to relieve him or herself. Next, show the puppy where the water bowl is, and make sure it’s always filled with clean water. The puppy’s water bowl and feeding dish should be away from the feeding dishes and sleeping quarters of your other pets.

Meanwhile — and this is very important -— respect the existing territories, routines and privileges of your old dog and cat. Make a special effort to show them extra affection and assure them that you still love them.

As for your kids, they’ll wonder why they can’t roughhouse with the new puppy right away. Explain that you expect to have your new dog for many years and that there will be plenty of time to play after he becomes accustomed to his new home.

FEEDING DISH AND WATER BOWL

If your puppy is destined to become a big dog, you’ll probably have to get a starter set of bowls and upgrade to a larger set as he grows into adulthood. The most common feeding dishes and water bowls are made of plastic or metal, which have the advantages of being economical and unbreakable.

If you already have a cat or dog, your new addition can eventually share the water bowl but not the feeding dish. You don’t want your pets fighting for first place at dinner time; also, they may be on different diets (if the other pet is a cat, they certainly will be). The breeder or a pet store manager can recommend one suitable for the particular breed of dog you have. Whatever kind of bowl you use, you and the dog will be happier if they are designed not to tip over. Some dogs like to place a paw on the rim of the feeding dish while eating, so a non-tip design is important.

DOG CRATE

A crate is the perfect place for a puppy to sleep. It’s a cozy, confined space that makes a puppy feel secure. It’s a safe place for a puppy that’s entering a home where other pets already live. It will help in housebreaking the puppy, since dogs don’t like to soil their own beds. It enables you to safely confine the dog when visitors or workers are in the house. If you travel by air, your dog will be accustomed to the crate, and the journey won’t be so traumatic. (For these reasons, you should never discipline a dog while he is in his crate, or confine him to his crate as punishment.)

Invest in a sturdy carrier made of high-impact plastic or heavy steel wire. Find one that has rounded edges (easier to clean), a strong metal grille that fastens securely, and an easy-to-grip handle. Make sure that it is large enough to comfortably accommodate your dog when full-grown, with enough room for him to stand up and turn around inside.

A PLACE TO SLEEP

A dog crate makes for excellent sleeping quarters. Remember, your puppy will grow quickly, so be sure the crate is sized appropriately. Put a cozy bed inside, find a draft-free corner and place the crate there. Once your puppy is trained, you can provide a permanent pet bed—provided, of course, that he doesn’t end up sleeping on your bed.

PRELIMINARY HOUSEBREAKING

As we’ve mentioned, dogs don’t like to soil their sleeping quarters, which is why crate training works so well with puppies. While a puppy is in his crate, he will postpone relieving himself as long as possible. So when your puppy is sleeping (which is most of the time), he should be in his crate. Whenever you take your puppy out of his crate, take him outdoors immediately.

Select one outdoor area (or a litter box if your home has no yard) where your puppy is to relieve himself. After every stimulating event — a car ride, waking up from a sleep or nap, meeting new people, playing or (most importantly) about 15-20 minutes after every meal — take the puppy to this place.

When he sniffs around, use an encouraging phrase — “That’s it, that ’s it,” for example. (Use this phrase only in this circumstance!) After he has eliminated, praise him and immediately return him to the house but not necessarily to his crate. You want him to get the idea that when h e ’s outdoors at his special place, he’s there for a purpose. However, you don’t want him to think that once he’s done his duty, he’s always going to be put back into his crate. By having your puppy sleep in his crate, you encourage bowel and bladder control. But you must check on the puppy often. During this period of life, you will be taking him outside about every two hours.

If you discover him while he is eliminating indoors, clap your hands hard and say in a loud, stern voice, “No!” Then take him outdoors immediately. However, don’t tell him h e ’s a bad dog, don’t rub his nose in the mess, or strike him; this will only encourage the puppy to hide from you while relieving himself. It also helps to maintain a consistent daily routine — e.g., meals and walks at the same time tomorrow as they were today, and so on. By consistently following these guidelines, you can housebreak a two-or three-month-old puppy in two weeks, and older puppies in two or three days. (However, be prepared for an occasional accident even when your dog is fully grown.)

DOG DOOR

If you intend to have a pet door, have it installed before you bring him home. Remember to make sure it will be large enough for him when he’s full-grown. Install only a lockable dog door, and keep it locked until your puppy is house-trained.

When you show your puppy how the door operates, don’t let the flap swing into his face; that will only make him afraid and delay his use of the door. Hold the flap up, and entice the puppy through the door by placing something yummy like a Nutro Puppy Drumstick or some Nutro Training Bits on the other side. Praise and pet the puppy after he makes it through .